Boot or shoe



(No Model.)

W. D. McGOY.

BOOT 0R SHOE. No. 393,776. Patented Dec. 4, 1888.

WITNESSES: INVENTOR:

Y u ATT'YS.-

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

VVIILIAM D. (*COY, OF ORANGE, NEIV JERSEY.

BOOT OR SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 393,776, dated December 4, 1888.

- Application filed February 29, 1888. Serial No. 265,720. (No model.)

IooY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Orange, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boots or Shoes; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertaius to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

This invention relates more particularly to that class of boots used more commonly in hunting and in mining, Where it is intended that the boot shall be laced up after being placed on the foot, so that very heavy stockings or an inner pair of light boots may be worn within the said boot, the object being.

to reduce the cost of construction, to secure a better-fitting boot and one more comfortable to the foot, and also to secure aboot that will be more perfectly impervious to water.

.The invention consists in the improved boot having the arrangements and combinations of parts thereof substantially as will be hereinafter set forth, and in the improved pattern or leg blank adapted to be inserted in said boot.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation of the improved boot, and Fig. 2 is a plan of ablank or a pattern for a blank adapted to be employed in giving form to the upper part of said boot, and illustrating a construction whereby the said leather blank may be employed in connection with a shoe.

In said drawings, A indicates the vamp of the boot or shoe; B, the leg-leather; D, the

back-strap or counter; E, the knee, and G the back of the leg.

In forming the blank from which the upper part of the boot is made I cut the leather substantially in the shape shown in Fig. 2. At one side, as at A, the leather is given a tongue shape to form the vamp. From the tongueshaped part the lines of the pattern diverge to form the quarters H H, where the leather forms the angle at which a scam, 1, extending up the leg B, terminates at its lower extremity at the sole J. From the angles H H the lines of the leather blank continue to diverge, as at K K, producinga fullness for the swell of the leg. At one side, above the fullness K, the line of the blank is contracted, or is cut back toward the middle of the blank, and extends upward, as at L, and on the other receives or joins with the back-strap or counter D,which in the finished boot extends vertically at the back of the leg.

On the opposite part of the blank from which the vamp-tongue A extends is the knee E. At one side of the blank, adjacent to one of the parts H H, and connecting with the back of the leg part, is the back-strap or counter D. This is preferably narrow, as at d, where it connects with the part G, and broadens, as at (l', at its free extremity, where it engages the sole of the boot and overlaps the counterstiffener, as indicated in outline in Fig. 1.

In forming the boot-leg the leather pattern is turned so that the edge M overlaps or comes in proper engagement with the edge M, as shown in Fig. 1, and the edges are then sewed together. The opposite parts, K K, are brought nearly together, and the part D overlaps the opposite edges of said parts K K and the leather above the angles H H. By this construction the boot-leg, at the back thereof just above the counter, has or needs to have but a single thickness of leather, and thus the discomfort occasioned in the boots heretofore provided having a heavy seam at this part is avoided.

In the finished leg, where the edges L and L approach one another, a gusset, N, may be inserted, as shown in Fig. 1; but by broadening the leather pattern at this part the said gusset maybe dispensed with, although I prefer the same, as it is ordinarily made of lighter or softer leather, and thus is conducive of ease and comfort. It also admits of the bootleg being drawn tightly around the leg of the wearer by means of the strap N without discomfort.

At the center part of the pattern is formed a series of cuts, 0 O, which extend in an irregular line from the back or upper part of the vamp toward the knee E, the leather between said cuts 0 0 being transversely cut, as at P P, forming tongues O and Q, a portion of leather between the two said cuts 1 1" being removed, so that when the leather is bent to form the angle or concavity between the vamp and leg the tongue will not overlap too much and form or produce an undue thickness at the front of the leg. The said cuts 0 O are rounded, as at 0 0, and flare, as at o o, to allow of the lapel being drawn down I over the vamp, as hereinafter described.

\Vhen in the tinishcd article the edges of the tongue Q overlap and are sewed down upon the outside of the adjacent parts S ofthe body-leather, so that the fullness at the front of the leg is reduced, the said parts being brought toward one another beneath said tongue. The lower tongue, C, is disposed beneath the adjacent parts T T, and at its upper extrcmit y underlies the end of the tongue Q, so that when sewed to said parts 'I T and Q no water can penetrate through the bootleg at these said parts. The said parts S S and T T are brought together or toward one another by working the leather when the same is bent to form the concavity between the vamp and leg, as shown in Fig. l. The scams or lines of stitching U, which unite the tongue (1 with the said adjacent; parts T T, he back from the edges of said parts T, forming lacinglapels V, in which series of eyelets \V are inserted. By this construction, when the boot is unlaced, the fullness will allow of the introduction of the foot covered with a heavy stocking, which fullness will be taken up when the lace is drawn up. Thus the boot can be used with a stocking when otherwise it would be impossible to introduce the stockinged foot unless the boot were made so large at the ankle as to be loose and uncomfortable when the foot is inserted in position.

It will be observed that the parts (I, O, and D are each of one piece of leather, and thus in the construction of the boot there is a very large saving of material as compared with other constructions in which the boot is made from several pieces of other shapes.

\Vhen I wish to employ the invention in connection with a shoe, I may remove the upper parts at the lines indicated at X. In that case the back-strap or counter D will be a separate blank or piece from the vamp and quarters, as will be apparent.

here the incisions O O terminate, or at their extremities, they are sharply turned, as shown at 1919,11 which formation in overlapping the adjacent parts a smooth finish is secured. The same sharp turn is made at the extremity of the incision that divides the backst-rap and the parts adjacent thereto.

I am aware that it is not new to provide a boot with what I have herein termed 1apels over the covering C for the instep, and i I do not claim the same herein.

'hen the upper having the tongue C formed i substantially as described is prepared for the l boot, the parts i l of the adjacent leather T T nearest the vamp are drawn downward toward and over the upper part of the vamp, and thus the curved lines o 0 are-straightened out when viewed from the front or brought to aposition proper for lacing, and the vamp is at the same time brought to an angle with the leg. As in Fig. 1, the leather at I) l) is stretched to secure a proper conformation.

The tongue (1 is crimped, so as to lie up against the under side of the adjacent leather and conform to the instep.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new is 1. In a boot or shoe, a leather piece for an upper, having incisions (),whereb v a tongue, is formed integral with the body, the material adjacent to said tmigue on the opposite side thereof overlapping said tongue and stitched or secured thereto, as at U, and forming lapels V, substantially as and for the purposes set' forth.

'2. In a boot or shoe, a leather piece for an upper, having opposite extending tongues, Q C, integral with the material of the body adjacent thereto, the tongue Q being extended so that its end projects over and onto the end of the tongue and is stitched thereto, while its sides extend over on and are stitched to the adjacent parts of the body, and the tongue (7 extends under the adjacent parts of the body and is stitched or secured thereto, as at l', forming lapels V, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

3. In a boot, the vamp A, quarters ll 1'], knee E, back G, back-strap or counter D, and central tongues, C and. Q, all formedv in one integral piece, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

at. A blank for a boot-upper, shaped at its lower end as at A, the lines of its edges diverging backward to the quarter-angles II- II, and again diverging to form the fullness li K, and then contracted to II, having on one side a piece, G, adapted for the back of the leg of the boot and back-strap I), all of one piece of leather, snliistantially as and for the purposes set forth.

5. A boot. or shoe made from a blank shaped at its lower end as at A, the lines of its edges diverging backward to the quarter-angles H H, and again diverging to form the fullness K K, and then contracting to I., having on one side a piece, G, adapted for the back-strap D, all of one piece of leather, substantially as and for the purposes setforth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand this 25th day of February, 1888.

WM. l). MCCOY.

Witnesses:

CHARLES II. PELL, PHILIP G. VoEo'rLEx. 

